Wedding Gazette

Tuxedos 101

By Jennifer Baumann

Learn how to choose formalwear for your wedding - depending on what time of day you're holding the ceremony, how formal your wedding is going to be, and your personal preferences.

According to facts gathered from (semi-reliable) internet sources, the tuxedo was invented in 1886 by an American tobacco baron bored with the heavy and uncomfortable formalwear brought over by the British nearly a century earlier.

Over what was Pierre Lorillard peeved? Well, there were the 16-18 oz.-per-yard wool cutaway jackets with tails and matching unlined wool trousers, the starched shirts, ascots, wool vests, silk top hats and the gloves. So, when Pierre had decided to throw a party in Tuxedo Park, New York, he had his tailor draw up something that would be comfortable, light, and stylish to distinguish him from all the other men at the party. Although it's rumored that he didn't have the guts to wear it, his son Griswold did, and showed up at the party in a short, red, lightweight jacket cut somewhat like a smoking jacket, complete with satin lapels. He wore no hat and no gloves, but instead chose a simple look of comfortable elegance. Thus, the tux was birthed. Read on to find to investigate newer versions of the penguin suit you'd like to assemble for your Big Day.

Formality

• White Tie

This is the most formal dress, usually reserved for extremely formal wedding ceremonies and receptions that take place at night, usually after six o'clock. Men wear white ties (obviously), white vests, and coats with tails at these occasions, traditionally.

• Black Tie

This is next in formalwear's line as a bit less formal than white tie, but black tie tuxedo affairs are usually still reserved for evening weddings, with the groom and his fellows wearing tuxedos with black ties, vests or cummerbunds.

• Morning Suits

These are an old tradition reserved for the very formal day wedding. Included with a morning suit is a grey cutaway jacket, waistcoat, wing-collar shirt, grey striped trousers and a tie or ascot.

• Tuxedos

Tuxes of all kinds are worn nowadays by grooms no matter what time of day or version of formality. Less formal accessories added to tuxedos are stylized or conversational vests and matching ties. The groom can distinguish himself from the rest of the groomsmen by wearing a different colored tie, vest, or cummerbund than the rest of the wedding party.

• Suits

Suits are appropriate for casual or less-than-formal day or evening weddings. Since suits vary in style and cut, the type you choose can determine the formality of the occasion. For less formal weddings, groomsmen can get away with dress slacks and blazers.

The Shirt

• Wing Collar:

Traditionally only worn with the most formal of tuxedos, perfect for a black or white tie occasion, although coupled with any bow tie, a wing collar shirt is stylish and formal.

• Turn-Down Collar:

Next step down in formality, although fine to wear with a bowtie and perfect with a four-in-hand or ascot. Also traditionally worn with suits.

• Mandarin Collar:

The no-collar collar. Worn with a regular tuxedo or suit jacket and vest, this popular fashion is stylish but less formal because you cannot wear a tie.

The Shoes

• Opera Slippers:

The most formal formal shoe, available in velvet, leather, and patent leather. With no ties or chunky design, this sleek slip on is usually only seen with a black or white tie tuxedo.

• Loafers:
Available in matte or patent leather, and less formal than opera slippers. Perfect slip ons for tuxedos.
• Oxfords:

Many styles of this classic favorite are available for men today, with styles ranging from chunky Steve Madden styles to sleek "tuxedo" shoes. Oxfords go well with all kinds of tuxedos and suits - although patent leather are usually reserved for tuxedos only.

The Jacket

• Black or White Dinner Jacket:

Regular weight and length formal tuxedo jacket, usually complete with satin lapels and a boutonniere hole. White jackets are usually reserved for summer weddings and warmer parts of the world. Both are worn only with tuxedo pants.

• "Tails" and Cutaway Coats:

A formal remnant of 18th and 19th century fashion still worn today, either with a morning suit or standard tuxedo. The jacket is short in front (near or above the beltline), and split with two long pieces of fabric (the tails) in the back.